Introduction to Index: Great Northern Slab

The granite walls in Index, WA are a trad climbing proving ground. I was long overdue for a visit here. Maybe some of that was subconscious hesitation, or probably just poor planning. The routes are notoriously sandbagged. That basically means if you can rip something rated a 5.7 in Index, you can rip a 5.7 anywhere. With Forbidden Peak looming in my near future, I’ve been feeling like getting on as much rock as possible. I reached out to my old friend Jon from last year’s Mount Olympus climb. Jon is an avid trad climber, and someone who is a good vibe to be around. He was happy to take me up on the suggestion for some rock climbing soon, and we finally agreed on a chill day at Index. This sounded like a great idea, and it dawned on me once again that I was shocked I’ve still never been out there. It was time to finally punch that ticket!

July 22, 2026

Beta

• Crag: Index Lower Town Wall (plus K-Cliff on the Inner Wall), Index, WA
• Routes: Great Northern Slab (P1 5.2, P2 5.7, P3 5.7+), and Al’s Armed Response (5.8) at K-Cliff
• Style: Trad. Standard rack. I brought two full racks, a few Totems, and a #4 for Al’s Armed Response.
• Grades are sandbagged. If you can rip a 5.7 at Index, you can rip a 5.7 anywhere.
• The P1 5.2 opener felt comical. Don’t get discouraged, it’s a tough opening move onto smooth, worn-out rock.
• The crux moves above are fun to solve.
• Anchors: The gigantic railroad bolts (1 inch thick) atop P1 are a unique and hilarious sight.
• Rappel: The chains at the top of P1 are for the rappel. Don’t anchor there on the way up, and don’t forget about them on the way down. The train-bolt anchors are too far away to rappel to without risking a big (probably kind of fun) swing on the slab.
• Heat: The lower wall gets very hot, very early on summer days. Chase shade on the Inner Wall.
• Crowds: Lots of routes all around this one. Expect to see other climbers.
• Descent: Straightforward rappels.
• Conditions (as of 7/22/2026): Hot and sunny, the wall bakes early.
• Nearby: Money Creek for a cold dip, Espresso Chalet for coffee and views.

The approach

We arrived around 0700 and got caught up with each other. I grabbed my gear and rope and we set off on the arduous hike into the lower walls. Once we made it over the railroad tracks of the Great Northern Railway, we had arrived. Over 100 feet of trail covered. A tough morning hike, but we still had some energy left.

Jon checking out the wall.

Great Northern Slab

Jon has been here quite a bit before, and pushed some tough routes. In a gesture of kindness, he was willing to warm up with me on the Great Northern Slab (aptly named next to the railroad tracks) multipitch route. I would say that this is essentially the perfect humbling introduction to Index. P1 is a 5.2 that starts with a questionably difficult move. I was going to lead this, the 5.7 P2, and then Jon would lead the last 5.7+ P3. Then we would rap on down. I was stoked to test the waters and get moving, but I fully expected the 5.7 to kick my butt a little.

A lizard friend holding down the base of Great Northern Slab.

Well guess what! The 5.2 did that before the 5.7 got a chance. The opening move is a confusing slab with next to nothing for your hands, onto smooth, worn-out rock. I started to feel a little discouraged. If I couldn’t do a 5.2 move, how was I going to climb anything else here? This is as easy as it gets in Index. I pitifully hopped back down and gave the reins over to Jon to lead us out on P1. In my defense, Jon didn’t necessarily make this move look easy. At least not like a 5.2. It took some effort. But he still got it pretty quick. I felt a little bit better and hoped the start was maybe a fluke. Or maybe some Index grade trolling. Either way, Jon got me on belay and I was heading up now.

The rest of the pitch certainly felt like a moderate scramble, and the grade made a touch more sense. To my surprise, the anchor Jon built was on some gigantic 1-inch-thick train bolts. It was cartoonish and we both were laughing pretty hard at the visual. He handed me back whatever gear I had given him, and now it was time for me to climb my first Index 5.7. And honestly, it went great! I was a little slow, and got caught up on a part I didn’t feel like I could protect very well. Eventually after a train came rumbling through, I took that as my sign to send it and made the move. I got up to the next hold just fine. The consequences of climbing mistakes are often built up far more in our heads than the likelihood of the mistake actually happening. At least, on lead anyway. There was a fun little ledgey traverse section over to a bigger crack too, that felt a little airy and cool. Before I knew it, I was up at the next set of chains, built an anchor, and belayed Jon up.

The view from the top of P2.

He took all the gear now and cruised through P3. I think he had it done in maybe half the time it took me to do P2, but comparison is the thief of joy! I was just glad he was putting up with me being a little slow. We made quick work of the rappels, checked our systems, and got back down to the base.

Jon rapping down P1.

Al’s Armed Response

The morning was heating up quickly, and the wall was hot. We decided to go check out a goal route for Jon. Godzilla, a 5.9, is a classic trad route in Index. Two guys had just wrapped up climbing it. One had enough Totems to fill a 401k account. The route looked serious, tough, and tall. Plus, it was in the sun now. Jon decided he would try it a different day. We started making our way towards the Inner Wall to find some routes in the shade. We weren’t having much luck until we came across K-Cliff. Here we saw the route “Al’s Armed Response.” A 5.8. An Index 5.8, at that. This was stiffer than I was expecting to lead.

The new Totems yearn for the granite.

Jon asked what I wanted to do. “Want to give it a shot, if it gets too rough I can lower you down and finish the lead?” It sounded to me like he wanted me to give it a shot, and honestly, I did. What good is all that pro and gear if you’re never actually using it? Jon celebrated my eagerness to give it a go, and I tied in. Stepping up to the face now, I could see the full route. Yeesh.

A snake friend we met over by Al’s Armed Response.

There were some overhanging sections. Subtle, but you would certainly feel them when gravity started doing its thing. A single bolt. That gave me a little confidence. When I see a tough section that gets me nervous, I try to remind myself I can usually climb some pretty tough/crazy roofs and routes in the gym. It’s not that I couldn’t do it, it’s just that it would be really scary to do it. And sometimes you have to make peace with that fear in order to make progress climbing.

I began my ascent. I brought two full racks, a few Totems, and a 4. I was going to stitch this thing up. I made a few bold moves up towards the bolt without any pro, and decided it was time. I placed my first piece and clipped the rope in. Now it was really on. I eventually topped out over the first overhang section, climbed up some more into the crack, chimneyed between walls, stemmed, jammed, and even did a pseudo knee bar at one point. When I finally got to the final third, I was feeling pretty wiped. I was proud of my progress and how far I had come on a 5.8 on my first single-pitch lead in Index. I considered lowering down, but I decided to give myself some time to rest. I couldn’t see any spots the pro I had left would fit. I was beginning to wonder if I really had what I needed to make it.

Sure I did. Where there’s a will, there is a way. I asked myself, do you want to grow today, or stay where you’re at? Well, I wanted to grow. So I made some big moves, and threw my over-camming concerns to the wind. If I saw it, and I knew the cam would go in, I reached for it and clipped. The rope drag I had created for myself was an additional fight in itself. I had to bite the rope, and drag a small section at a time, maybe a foot, and then repeat that process until I had enough slack pinched to reach the rope up and clip in. All while hanging on to an extremely awkward crack overhang before the chains. I was living on a prayer at this point that some lovely hand holds would appear, and the crack delivered. Out of sight, there were some good ones to grab onto, and I was able to finally get a solid foot and stand up towards the chains.

Woah! I did it. Jon had probably lived an entire lifetime on belay at the base, but I did it. I was extremely grateful for his patience. I clipped the rope into the permadraws and lowered on down. The sun had hit this climb now too, and I was cooked. My shirt was soaked and my muscles were torched. It was a super fun route.

Top of my toughest trad lead to date.

Jon wanted to clean the gear, so I quickly swapped spots with him and he climbed right up. He agreed that was a fun, spicy Index 5.8, and congratulated me on pushing my grade. Thank you, man! It was a long mental and physical wrestling match up those cracks.

Jon cleaning up the route.

Onward

All in all, I was still humbled at Index. A 5.8 feels almost too easy at the gym, but as soon as you go outside and climb with real consequence, it’s a whole different ballgame. We packed up and took off for Money Creek for a Washington summer dip. The water was icy cool and green. It felt insanely good. We both were getting fried all morning. We talked about life, cooled off several more times in the creek, and headed back to Espresso Chalet for some coffee and views. That was it for me, but Jon was actually heading back for more later that night on some other pitches. Beast! I was spent, and I felt like it had already been such a successful, classic, alpine summer day in July. I was happy to head back towards Seattle for some food and some rest.

Coffee and views at the Espresso Chalet.

I’m looking forward to more fun days on rock this summer, and times spent with good people. Onward.

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