Mount Ellinor

Mount Ellinor was my kind of day. Short, steep, and a little spicy, with the best dog in the world and a solid climbing partner along for it. We ran the winter route in late May, which still had plenty of snow up high to keep things interesting.

The lower mountain is a maintained trail until you hit consistent snow. From there it steepens fast and turns into a proper snow climb. We were on ice axe and crampons for the upper mountain, with poles stowed once it got serious. Nothing technical and no rope, but the kind of steep where you want to know your self-arrest cold.

Stella the alpinist, breaking trail like she pays the mortgage

Waiting up top for the slow two-legged crew to catch up

The thing to know about Ellinor in these conditions is the glissade chute and the creek running underneath it. By late May the snow was rotting out over the fast water, and there were snow bridges and deep holes punched straight down into it. We saw collapses and a few real death holes, the kind you do not want a leg going into, or worse. Be wary of punching through, especially on the descent when everything is soft. Give the obvious holes a wide berth and test anything that looks thin.

Looking down to Lake Cushman. Those flattened trees are a fair reminder of what this terrain can do

Up high near the summit, the snow blocks were actively breaking apart, chunks calving off as the day warmed. We picked our line carefully and topped out on a beautiful evening.

Topped out.

Black and white just in case someone needs a sick documentary pic

Then came the part I will remember. We timed it for a sunset up top, broke out two Italian sandwiches, and watched a thick fog roll over the summit and spill across the Olympic Range. Stella was thrilled, mostly about the sandwiches. Hard to beat sitting up there with your dog, a good buddy, good food, and fog pouring over the peaks while the light went orange.

The happiest dog in the Olympics

Stella’s main sandwich objective was still clear

Me and the best climbing partner there is

A couloir across the way catching the last light. Not our route, just a view we got to enjoy

The fog and the light just kept putting on a show

The descent is where I earned my lesson. The glissade route is hella dangerous in these conditions, between the creek holes below and the speed you can pick up. And here is the dumb part: I kept my crampons on while glissading. Do not do this. I caught a point and ended up with a minor puncture, sliding with crampons on like an idiot. Lesson logged, crampons come off before you sit down and slide. Still an amazing time, and a cheap lesson as far as those go.

Last light over Lake Cushman as we started down

Ellinor packs a lot into a short day. Real snow climbing, a genuine hazard to respect in the creek, and one of the best summit sunsets I have had. If you go in spring conditions, mind the snow bridges, keep your crampons off for the glissade, and bring a sandwich worth eating at the top.

The fog pouring over the summit at sunset

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