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Mount Triumph: The Northeast Ridge (Grade III, 5.7)

September 20, 2026 · North Cascades National Park, Washington

Mount Triumph: The Northeast Ridge (Grade III, 5.7)

A summer of smoke, permit failures, and a crisis of alpine confidence, then a knife-edge ridge 6,000 feet up with a sheer drop on both sides.

Distance
20.71 mi
Elev. Gain
7,588 ft
Time
3 days
Coords
48.6249° N, 121.2122° W
Download GPX track

GPS track for route beta. Conditions change constantly, so verify your route and navigate at your own risk.

We were standing above 6,000 feet on a sloping rock ridge. A foot or so on either side of us, a sheer drop for thousands of feet onto the remains of a dying glacier. It’s the North Cascades, so I don’t trust any rock. “Okay, go ahead and lead us out onto that knife edge, I’ve got you on belay.” It is a knife edge, so a belay is good peace of mind, but this is essentially a no fall zone. As I found a foothold, gripped the ridge, and leaned my body weight back on the knife edge itself, I was ready to climb. But we still had a long, long day ahead.

Mount Triumph is my first major alpine objective on the ridge to redemption. After Torment-Forbidden last year, I had learned what it’s like to bite off more than I can chew. Triumph’s NE ridge would prove to be the test I needed.

The opener attention grabber shot on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph

The view from camp the night before. The knife edge awaits.

September 19 to 21, 2026

Beta

  • Peak: Mount Triumph (7,240 ft), North Cascades National Park, WA
  • Route: Northeast Ridge
  • Grade: Grade III alpine climb. Technical rock, exposed knife edge, rappels on descent. Rope, rack, and crevasse-adjacent terrain.
  • Distance: 20.71 miles round trip (per GPS)
  • Elevation gain: 7,588 ft
  • Time: Three days. ~13 hours camp to summit to camp on day 2.
  • Trailhead: Thornton Lakes Trailhead off Cascade River Road, near Marblemount, WA
  • Permits: Mount Triumph Cross Country Zone permit required. Pick up at Marblemount Ranger Station. We had no competition for permits; this is not a crowded zone.
  • Road: Standard paved approach to the trailhead.
  • Conditions (as of 9/19/2026): Peak fall color on the approach. Snow-free trail. Glacier remnants on the approach slabs, with a live serac hazard zone to cross quickly. Rock on the NE Ridge is mostly solid with isolated loose sections, better than typical Cascades choss. One section of slime traps on wet slab on the return.
  • Hazards: Active wasp nest at the base of the switchbacks (climber’s left, in a hole in the ground). Bushwhack around it both ways. Serac fall zone on the glacial slabs. Loose rock below the first notch. No-fall knife edge section mid-ridge.
  • Water: Fill at the Thornton Lakes. Last reliable water at the tarns below the ridge. Carry enough for the full ridge day.
  • Rappels: 10+ rappels on descent, mix of fixed tat and new anchors. 60m rope is the call; the 3rd rappel from the summit uses the full 60m. We built two new rappel anchors: one to get you down to the tree made of nuts, and another for the last rappel to replace the old, weathered tat.
  • Gear: Full alpine rack (nuts, cams, cordellette), 60m rope, harness, helmet, approach shoes and rock shoes (or trail runners if you’re bold). TC Pros optional for the crux crack. Trekking pole for approach and descent.
  • Guide service: This trip was done with Skyline Mountain Guides. Highly recommended, especially for a first look at this route.
  • GPX: Download track available on this page. Cleaned GPX also available on Peakbagger.

The Preamble

What a weird summer it had been. July unexpectedly cut a lot of trips with bad weather. In the blink of an eye, August surrounded us Washingtonians in fire and smoke. It was tough to catch a break. Compared to the previous summer where I simply burned out from the sheer volume of climbs I was on, this summer felt like more of a famine. Maybe that was for the best? I could feel myself beginning to overdo it at one point in July, and then that was my last climb for a while.

I got a few good ones from time to time with climbing partners across the difficult environmental factors, but I was craving redemption from 2025. Torment-Forbidden Traverse had rocked me on day 1. The climbing shaped up into something spectacular in day 2, but I had to come to terms this summer that something had stuck with me. I was shaky on easy sloping angles, totally untrusting of any and every hold around, and downright anxious about certain approaches. This was extremely uncharacteristic of me the last 3 years, and is somewhat of a vulnerable thing for me to admit.

I had decided that the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak was calling. And this would be my redemption. The same line, same peak, but finishing the job. Ideally having a good, safe experience with trusted climbing partners too. Great climbing and holds, and a world-class summit would top off the experience. I got this one in the books early in the summer with the Mountaineers, and I could only pray the conditions would line up. About a week before, there was a change in leaders for the trip, and I was also dropped as a mentee. Now, as an assistant leader, I offered my gear and advice where I felt I could. This leader change also brought about participants dropping. Not a good sign, but the wheels were still on the bus.

Now, the weather. Smoke was debilitating up in the Boston Basin area, but it looked like some generous winds were coming through to blow them away and clear out. And I was able to fill the spots for followers that were empty. Okay, this thing was going to go, and I was ready. I spent the day prepping my pack, checking my gear, and taking this all perhaps a touch too seriously. But the excitement was pretty consuming. 4 pm rolls around on this day and it’s getting close to time to head up towards Cascade River Road. The new leader shot us a painfully late text to let us know permits were gone. Yikes. There was mention made to try and do it car to car, but I felt this was a very bad idea with a slow group of Mountaineers on a Saturday just after the weather had cleared after weeks. No dice, the trip was shot.

Fast forward a few more weeks, and I still hadn’t found a window with a climbing partner or objective that lined up. Weather was still hit or miss. September had arrived, and I was running out of summer. I took a minute to reassess my priorities. Number one was to have a good climb on something big and gain that confidence back. Second was to bag something epic. Maybe the investment to go guided after years of solo and private trips finally made sense again.

Skyline Mountain Guides

Skyline has earned a solid reputation in the Pacific Northwest for reputable, experienced guides and exceptional routes. I have also followed Justin Sackett (founder) on social media for some time and seen his harrowing trips, so I decided to reach out to Skyline Mountain Guides to see what they had to offer. They responded to my request quickly, and I explained my current situation. They were quite understanding, and seemed to know exactly where my head was at. After a couple introductions and correspondences, a few recommendations were made that I wasn’t sure about right away. The main suggestion was Mount Triumph. With shorter days as we were trending towards fall, and smaller weather windows, this three-day itinerary was a lot to ask from the weather gods. As I began to deep dive into this mountain and route, I quickly gathered this was a respected, fairly hardcore, and classic alpine route deep in North Cascades National Park.

Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge route map

The route. Three days deep in the North Cascades.

With some external encouragement from my climbing partners as well, I went all in. The trip coordinator always responded to me right away, so he set the trip up same day and we got it booked once I was ready. I was very careful not to let myself get too excited, as I had been burned so many times this summer. There was a good chance that late September weather would not be forgiving.

The days rolled on, and I casually checked the forecast as the dates drew closer. We were now a few days out, and unbelievably, the weather forecast was nearly perfect. A few clouds and mostly sunshine throughout the day. This trip was going to go! Skyline connected me with my guide, Adam Gellman. We discussed the trip, goals, itinerary, and agreed to meet the next morning in Marblemount.

Day 1: The Approach

We were able to score the Mount Triumph Cross Country Zone permits from Marblemount Ranger Station, and much to our surprise we didn’t see a single soul on the route. This was a far cry from my experience in the Sahale Arm area of North Cascades where I had spent the previous three days on my solo attempt towards Buckner and Sahale Mountain. This would make for 6 consecutive days in the North Cascades, and I was loving every second of it.

We ran a thorough gear check and itinerary discussion nearby in Marblemount. Once we were dialed in with our Cascades alpine racks, we took off for the trailhead. The trail was smooth and buttery for a few miles, then we began the uphill. It’s worth noting that near where the switchbacks begin, there is a pretty killer wasp nest. They are quite angry and they’re in a huge hole on the climber’s left side of the trail. It’s easy to miss and walk right on top of, so mind your steps through this section! On both occasions we bushwhacked a bit off trail to give them some respectable space.

As we topped out on the switchbacks, we were able to catch our first glimpse of Mount Triumph’s summit. It was way back there. And sheesh! As a distraction, the peaking fall foliage was now surrounding us and Thornton Lakes. It was really something else to witness. It felt like we had picked the perfect time for this trip.

First look at Thornton Lakes on the approach to Mount Triumph, fall foliage surrounding the lakes

First look at Thornton Lakes. The fall colors were absolutely peaking.

We began our steep descent down towards the lakes, and eventually found the climbers trail.

Getting down towards the first lake through autumn bliss on the Mount Triumph approach

Getting down towards the first lake through autumn bliss.

The climbers trail is a great North Cascades adventure! I strongly recommend one or two GPX tracks and some solid recent beta. You begin a downclimb towards the lake, back up through some campsites and bushwhacking. There is a pit toilet hidden back here, so if you run into the sign and find it, take advantage! (Note: it does NOT have an iconic NCNP view like the revered Sahale Glacier Camp or Boston Basin). This will be the last toilet you see for some time.

Down at the first lake and looking for the climbers trail on the approach to Mount Triumph

Down at the first lake, hunting for the climbers trail.

Next we did some boulder hopping, a log crossing or two, and some dense bushwhacking up to the next lake. Here we opted to snack, have some water, and refill before ascending the gully towards the pass. We were greeted by some excited trout that kept surfacing while we sat back and absorbed the glorious autumn day.

On the climbers trail up at the second lake for a break, first view of the steep col up to camp on the Mount Triumph approach

At the second lake for a breather. First look at the steep col up to camp.

After fueling up and refilling some water, we began the last bit of our approach towards high camp. This requires sidehilling along some choss and vegetation. The choss and dirt are quite steep, but at least if the worst happens you might tumble into a lake. We continued up and along the faint climbers trail, and eventually escaped the choss. As we gained the pass, the mammoth Mount Triumph began to reveal its peak and spiny ridge. The magnitude of what lay ahead was beginning to set in!

Ascending the col to camp on day 1 of the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge climb

The col up to camp. Steep, chossy, and worth every step.

Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge from the pass, the spiny ridge revealed

The Northeast Ridge revealing itself from the pass. Yeah, that’s the one.

Before tomorrow’s carnage, however, we found our camp for the night. There were a couple small but excellent sites in some lush alpine meadow. This would be our home for the next two nights. On one side we had the massive white boulder crumble of the start of Thornton Peak, another side Triumph and its glacier, a wall of heather and fall foliage on the other, and lastly the descent of the gully spanning out into the beautiful North Cascades peaks and the moon in the distance. This camp was truly something out of a mountaineer’s dream. Adam and I agreed upon a sharp 0600 leaving camp time the next morning. A big shoutout to Adam for descending the choss factory behind the camp towards some melting snow for our water supply. He brought back enough for the whole trip! We cooked and called it a night.

The full view of the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge route ahead from camp

The full route ahead of us. Tomorrow’s problem.

I watched a series of shooting stars, satellites, and the bright moon move through the starry sky, and I drifted asleep for the big day. Cowboy camping at its finest.

Sunset over the Picket Range on night 1 of the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge climb

Sunset over the Picket Range from camp.

Sunset over Trapper Peak on day 1 of the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge climb

Sunset over Trapper Peak.

View from the pass at camp, sunset and night coming in over the North Cascades on the Mount Triumph approach

The view from camp. Not a bad place to call it a night.

Day 2: The Northeast Ridge

We set off when we planned. I had made the decision that morning to bring my TC Pros for peace of mind, but most likely my trail runners were going to be the primary tool for my feet. Let’s see how far they can go. In my summit pack, I had brought more snacks and water for an alpine climb than ever before. We descended into immediate steep choss. I was thankful this part of the day was happening at the beginning, and not considering it would also be at the end.

And so it begins, sidehilling down loose choss towards the slabs on day 2 of Mount Triumph

And so it begins. Sidehilling down loose choss towards the slabs.

We did a cheeky, short little snow crossing, and gained the smooth granite slabs left behind by the dying glacier.

Adam happy to be off the choss, the deep gully lies ahead on the Mount Triumph approach to the ridge

Adam happy to be off the choss. The deep gully lies ahead, and it isn’t obvious from here.

The next obstacle after the choss madness was a deep gully carved top to bottom of the slabs by the unnamed glacier. This part was dangerous in several ways: unstable, awkward to downclimb, and directly in the fall zone for the remains of the dying glacier to slide down into the bottom of the basin. We made some awkward downclimb moves, and cruised through the fall zone after.

Me pausing across the icefall zone on the Mount Triumph approach

Parusing across the icefall zone. Don’t linger.

Our approximate route to and down into the gully on the Mount Triumph approach

Our approximate route down into the gully. Move fast through the fall zone.

A bigger look at the route to the slabs and the deep gully crossed on the Mount Triumph approach

A bigger look at the route to the slabs and the deep gully we crossed. The serac fall zone is hard to miss.

Once on the slabs, we stopped by a tarn for one last water fill before the ridge.

Dropping the poles and filling up at the tarn before the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph

Dropping the poles and topping off at the tarn. Last water before the ridge.

Sunrise rising over the Picket Range, lining up to be beautiful on day 2 of Mount Triumph

Sunrise over the Pickets, lining up to be beautiful.

Alpenglow on Triumph and the Northeast Ridge on the approach across the slabs

Alpenglow on Triumph and the ridge. Still a long way to go.

Our next major obstacle was gaining the ridge. To get to the first notch, we had to climb and scramble through some pretty nasty stuff. This included an interesting chimney move to get up and over a weird spot. After pulling the chimney move successfully, I felt like my climbing muscles were now warmed up, and I was getting excited to be on the ridge. Adam and I pitched out a few spots to get there, and we were glad we did so. It’s exposed, consequential, and the rock isn’t good below the notch. It’s wild to see how high up the glacier once was. Imagine the days of being able to simply cross the glacier and gain the ridge!

The last junk rock section up to the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph

The last junk up to the ridge. Worth every sketchy move.

Roping up to pitch out and gain the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph

Roping up to pitch out and gain the ridge.

The Knife Edge

In what felt like a blink, we were now on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph. We began pitching, simul climbing, and using terrain belays.

On the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph and ready to climb

On the ridge and ready to climb.

Given how late we were in the season, and Adam’s 10+ years of experience alpine climbing, he was going to be doing almost all of the leading today. This made sense, as we had very limited time for shenanigans to ensue, and we both wanted this climb to be a success. Either way, we were both climbing this ridge. The ridge starts off somewhat mellow, but with limited protection. I gave Adam a confident belay, but often there was room for only a piece or two of protection between our short pitches. This route requires extreme confidence in your climbing partner.

Adam on lead during the early pitches of the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge

Adam on lead, early pitches. Mellow start, limited pro.

We continued for several pitches of climbing, maybe 5 to 7, before finally reaching the famous knife edge. This is where the rock of the ridge has really taken form. The rock is solid, the holds are good, the moves are airy, and the exposure is as good as it gets in the Cascades. Adam found a good spot to anchor in, and sent me out to lead across the knife edge.

Adam prepping for the knife edge on the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge

Adam prepping for the knife edge.

This was easily my favorite part of the climb. I found some feet, clamped the top edge with my hands, hanging on with a sheer drop of a couple thousand feet just below me and just on the other side of my hands. The belay is great and all, but it’s a knife edge with no pro placement. I consider this a no fall zone, and the moves need to be smooth and calculated.

I was gaining confidence more and more as we ascended the ridge, and the knife edge was no exception. I slowly and securely moved one limb at a time, testing holds and ensuring total security. I eventually found myself in a good spot to hang on, and Adam quickly followed behind. We danced a bit more across this knife edge, thrilling for every second. After you get across this arduous feature, you are presented with the remainder of the climb. A taller, much steeper crux tower and face to the summit just behind it. We were locked in.

Climbing up the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph after the knife edge

Climbing up the ridge, locked in.

We continued to pitch out bit by bit, slowly moving up to the crux, a right-leaning 5.7 crack. Call it an offwidth if you want.

We took a moment to get some water and food. We were certainly in need, and the exposure was only increasing beyond here. After a brief check in with each other, and some confidence boost on our efficient progress, we got ready to move again.

What's left to climb on the Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge, the 5.7 crux visible above

What’s left to climb. The 5.7 crux is visible above.

Now the question presented itself: TC Pros, or stick with the Mount to Coast H1s. It was a tough call. Cracks are not my best climbing medium, and this was a big alpine objective. I wanted to be dialed, but I needed to think of the long game. It’s a 5.7, within my wheelhouse, and I have big feet. I can jam anything. Another 6 to 10 pitches in the TC Pros sounded miserable, and there was still lots of sketchy heather ledges to scramble near the summit. Alright, trail runners it is. Let’s do this!

The Final Push

Adam put up an impressive lead. The crack was not easy, and as is usual in WA, at least a little sandbagged in rating. It was one of those moments in the middle of the pitch where you realize you are very glad to be belayed from above. I jammed my fat trail runner into the crack, grabbed a boulder I hoped wouldn’t fly off the mountain, laid back, and made it through the crux move of the pitch. Phew! A phenomenal lead by Adam, and super confidence inspiring for having only met 24 hours ago. I specifically remember feeling the climb at this point. My climb muscles had begun to fatigue, which is something I don’t feel very often. A reminder of how big of an alpine objective this ridge really is.

We continued on past the crux and scrambled down into the Grand Notch. I can’t really articulate it, but something about this notch of all notches is honestly pretty grand. It’s huge, breezy, and has gigantic rocks and boulders laying about in it. It’s also a pretty secure spot before continuing up the face to attain the summit. Another great snack and hydration stop. No time to waste, but a nice quick one.

We began the ascent to the summit, with noticeably worse rock. We traversed heather ledges, scrambled up some insecure rock, and began looking out for rappel stations.

Onto the heather ledges with the Picket Range in the distance on Mount Triumph

Onto the heather ledges, Pickets in the distance.

The final heather ledges and loose rock scramble to the summit of Mount Triumph, tat visible in lower right corner

The final heather ledges and loose rock scramble. Tat visible lower right, we didn’t use it.

It was hard to believe we were already this far. I was truly enjoying every second of this pure, Cascades alpine adventure. The steepness slowly began to fade. We spotted some tat in the distance. Rappel stations were a good sign; we were getting close. We zigged, zagged, scrambled, pulled on a few loose holds that made our hearts sink, and then all was quiet.

Looking back at the route from the grassy ledges just before the summit of Mount Triumph, the deep glacier gully obvious

Looking back at our route from the grassy ledges just before the summit. The deep glacier gully cuts right through the middle of it.

The heather was blowing all around us in the calm winds. All you could hear was a gentle breeze rolling over the rocks. The vegetation quickly disappeared, and we realized we were there. We proudly marched through a couple small bivy sites and gained the true summit of Mount Triumph at 7,240 feet.

Summit bliss on Mount Triumph with Mount Baker, Mount Blum, and Mount Shuksan directly behind

Summit bliss. Baker, Blum, and Shuksan directly behind.

I took as many pictures and videos as I could. I could see Mount Baker and Shuksan in the distance, just beyond the Bacon-Hagan-Blum traverse. Despair was close by, and in another direction we saw Primus, Eldorado, and the Klawatti zone peaks. Most notably, we witnessed a stunning visual of the Picket Range and its jagged, perilous peaks. This summit was a one-of-a-kind view in the middle of North Cascades National Park, and not one I would soon forget. We looked back and saw the pass that hosted our bivy sites. “Halfway,” I thought to myself.

Looking back at the pass and Thornton Lakes from the summit of Mount Triumph

A look back at the pass where we started the morning, and Thornton Lakes popping up below.

I took a seat, indulged in all the delicious snacks I could stomach, and housed some water.

Mid-snack thumbs up on the summit of Mount Triumph with Mount Blum behind

Mid-snack thumbs up for one of my favorite ascents from earlier in the season: Mount Blum.

I was feeling thirsty at this point for sure, but I knew this downclimb was going to take nearly as long as the climb. So I had to be smart with what water remained, about 0.8L. The fall colors in every direction growing all over the mountains was just fantastic to take in. I was so thankful for the timing and conditions of the climb.

Looking out towards Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan from the summit of Mount Triumph

Looking out towards Baker and Shuksan from the summit.

True summit of Mount Triumph in front of the glorious Picket Range

The true summit in front of the glorious Picket Range.

Mount Triumph summit with Mount Despair visible behind to the left

Mount Despair behind me to the left. Sounds about right for the end of a long season.

A Gatorade lake spotted below Mount Despair from the summit of Mount Triumph

Spotted a Gatorade lake below Despair from up top.

Quick selfie with the Picket Range on the summit of Mount Triumph

Quick selfie with the Pickets. Not a bad backdrop.

Mount Shuksan from the summit of Mount Triumph

Mount Shuksan from the summit.

Mount Blum from the summit of Mount Triumph

Mount Blum from the summit.

Mount Baker from the summit of Mount Triumph

Mount Baker from the summit.

One last look at Mount Baker and the mountain layers from the summit of Mount Triumph

One last look at Baker and the mountain layers. Then back on the rope.

We did notice that the fire going on behind the Pickets seemed to have picked up, and although not directly impacting us, we felt it was time to move.

Adam fueling for the long descent ahead at 7,240 ft on the summit of Mount Triumph

Adam fueling for the long descent ahead. 7,240 ft.

Back on the rope.

Downscrambling begins with the whole Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph below

Downscrambling begins, the whole ridge below.

The Descent

I scanned for our first rappel anchor. Neither of us was sure exactly where it was, but we were confident we would find something quickly or start downclimbing. Voila! I pointed Adam over towards a sharp, vertical horn. Some fresh and colorful tat was hanging off it, and we rappelled directly down towards the Grand Notch.

Prepping the first rappel from the summit of Mount Triumph

Prepping the first rappel from the summit.

We followed our noses and felt we were on the right path. This led to a series of many, many rappels and anchors, with lots of downclimbing in between. And of course the wonderful, airy return across the knife edge.

Back down the heather ledges on the descent of Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge

Back down the heather ledges.

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10+ rappels on the way down. Every anchor earned. Not in order.

Rappel views on the descent of Mount Triumph Northeast Ridge

Rappel views.

One last look back at the upper ridge and summit of Mount Triumph before heading down onto the easier sections

One last look back at the upper ridge and summit before heading down onto the easier sections. And lots more rappels.

Adam and I were moving quite efficiently together as a single rope team. I pre-rigged my rappel system and he went down first. He gave me a fireman’s belay and I made quick work of moving down the line as fast as possible. I would then pull the rope as he started building the next rappel with the other strand. We opted for saddle bags on each rappel. Although it added an extra minute or so to each one, this ensured we weren’t getting our rope into any weird spots. A little time cost for some shenanigans insurance on a tough route.

Looking down on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph from a midway rappel on the descent

Looking down on the ridge from a midway rappel. A long way down.

A few things worth noting on this descent. The 3rd rappel from the summit did have shenanigans ensue. The route calls for a 60m, and ours was about 58 to 59m. A touch short. And to reach that 4th anchor required some moves I have no knowledge of because I was perched on top of a cliff. It took Adam some time to reach this anchor, so be mindful of this if your rope has been shortened a little or isn’t a true 60. Also, when getting back down close to the fussy, loose, junk rock up to the first notch of the ridge, the rappel anchor is not obvious. There is a big blue one on top of a rock that would probably work, but it’s exposed and awkward to get to. We opted to build a new anchor here made of nuts and cordellette. I’ll admit I took a couple looks at it when I arrived down to Adam’s creation, but it was bomber. You’d sooner see pigs fly than pull that anchor out with a downward directional force.

Back towards the early junk rock where we gained the ridge on the descent of Mount Triumph

Back towards the early junk rock where we gained the ridge. Looking a lot spicier from above.

Next we arrived at the tree of a million tats, and they looked okay. Surely there were enough to hold us. For this section, Adam scurried down from the tree and managed to find the last rappel that would put us on the slabs. If you are curious, it’s out of sight but essentially straight down. This anchor also had a zillion tats, but Adam cut them all and built another new anchor, cordellette, jump tested a good bunch. We both rappelled on it fine. We were now back on the slabs!

So close to being off the ridge and back on the slabs on the descent of Mount Triumph

So close to being off the ridge and back on the slabs.

Adam looking back at the pass from the slabs on the descent of Mount Triumph, so close yet so far from camp

Adam looking back at the pass. So close yet so far from camp. At least we’re finally off the ridge.

We meandered our way towards the tarns. We had stashed our hiking poles there, and it served as a good checkpoint for our return. We filled up and chugged lots of water. I was parched!

Back to the tarn and the poles to chug some water on the descent of Mount Triumph

Back to the tarn and the poles. Only a few obstacles left to go.

All in a good day’s climb. The sun was beginning to set now, and the Pickets were beautiful. I couldn’t help but keep looking back at Triumph and that ridge. It was an exhilarating feeling of accomplishment.

Caught a stunning sunset moment on the Pickets near our exit on the descent of Mount Triumph

Caught a stunning sunset moment on the Pickets near our exit.

All we had ahead of us was simply to reverse the approach on the slabs. We tried a slightly different variation over the glacial gully, and quickly hopped through the potential serac fall section. We went a little higher this time and traversed back towards the slabs, but this now presented a new obstacle: slime traps. On random sections of wet rock, the moss or algae growing in the water was slippery as butter. After a very long day, it’s easy to make mistakes on silly things like this, so I scootched across these sections. They pop up now and then on the way back, and are comically slippery, but not actually a huge threat. Just don’t step on wet rock.

Over the big crack off the slabs and now into the steep choss on the descent of Mount Triumph

Over the big crack off the slabs and now into the steep choss. Almost there.

The choss was the last foe of the day, and we slowly but surely sidehilled the crumble and crossed the last section of snow. We made it back to camp!

Back at the bivy site and ready for some Spicy Thai Chicken after day 2 of Mount Triumph

Back at the bivy site. Time for some Spicy Thai Chicken.

We celebrated with my favorite dinner, the Backpacker’s Pantry Spicy Thai Chicken. It felt well deserved. Adam had done an absolutely phenomenal job on lead for this trip, and I felt as safe as one can on a spiny ridge for the duration of the day. Our team dynamic happened to be excellent, which is gold in the climbing world. We moved smoothly, efficiently, and communicated directly and effectively with each other. Adam is surely someone I would not hesitate to climb with again. Skyline Mountain Guides really raised the bar for me here, as they nailed not only the climb recommendation itself, but the guide pairing as well. That’s tough to do, and speaks well to the operation they are running.

The sun set over the surrounding North Cascades, and the moon rose again. I was fading fast with a warm meal in my stomach, and was stoked at what we had done.

Finally back at camp in time for a beautiful North Cascades sunset after day 2 of Mount Triumph

Finally back at camp in time for a beautiful North Cascades sunset.

We called it a night and agreed to be up and around by 0700 the next morning. We discussed possible Thornton or Trapper, but would make the decision the next morning after breakfast. Camp to summit to camp was a full 13 hours of climbing.

Last night of summer cowboy camping under the stars after a successful climb of Mount Triumph

Last night of summer. Cowboy camping under the stars after a successful climb.

Last night of summer cowboy camping under the stars after a successful climb of Mount Triumph, 2

The stars came out in full.

Last night of summer cowboy camping under the stars after a successful climb of Mount Triumph, 3

Cowboy camping at its finest. The bivy bag earned its keep.

Day 3: The Return

I woke up feeling accomplished. That NE Ridge was the perfect sized bite for me to chew on, and was full of thrills. I was able to learn a lot about terrain belays, positioning, Cascades climbing, and operating efficiently as a rope team. We had breakfast and continued to reminisce about the day before.

Sunrise on the last day of Mount Triumph, a great reward for the previous day's efforts

Sunrise on the last day. A great reward for the previous day’s efforts.

Sunrise on the last day of Mount Triumph, a great reward for the previous day's efforts, 2

Morning light breaking over the North Cascades.

Sunrise on the last day of Mount Triumph, a great reward for the previous day's efforts, 3

Worth every step of the day before.

For the first time after a climb in a very long time, I was feeling pretty sore. Thornton and Trapper Peaks were starting to sound pretty unappealing. But you know what wasn’t? One last dip in an alpine lake before summer was officially over.

We made our way back the same way we came in. Camp packed up quickly, and we did a sweep to ensure no trace was left behind. We sidehilled back down the chossy gully that led up to the pass, moved right past the lake full of trout, and down to the next lake.

Adam beginning the colorful descent down the col back towards the lakes with early morning light on day 3 of Mount Triumph

Adam beginning the colorful descent down the col. Early morning light, fall colors going off.

I took this opportunity to get down to my shorts and dive in. The cold water felt like possibly one of the best swims of my life. I spent about a minute in the water, but it was quite rejuvenating. I dipped my head over and over again and ran my hands through my hair. I took in the moment out here one last time, surrounded by a sea of fall colors. What a life.

One last summer alpine lake swim before we go on the return from Mount Triumph

One last summer alpine lake swim before we go.

Adam and I made quick time back to the trailhead. We problem solved our way through all shenanigans (mostly Adam, and me learning his methods). We also managed to avoid any wasp stings, which in and of itself was an accomplishment.

One last piece of beta: rockfall in the col on the return from Mount Triumph. This huge boulder was sitting on fresh green branches, showing it had happened recently.

One last piece of beta: rockfall in the col. This huge boulder was sitting on fresh green branches. It had happened recently. Move through here with purpose.

We arrived back at the cars in due time, roughly about 4 hours plus some swim time.

Back at the cars and all smiles after Mount Triumph, Adam was a fantastic guide and climbing partner

Back at the cars and all smiles. Adam was a fantastic guide and climbing partner.

Onward

This was easily my top trip of the summer. I really have to give kudos to Skyline Mountain Guides for hearing me out, listening to my story, and understanding where I am at in my climbing skills. They made astute suggestions on what would be a good next objective, and found the right guide for the job. I am looking forward to booking another major outing next year, where I hope to continue learning and growing my skillset with these professionals. If you are considering Mount Triumph for your next climb, don’t hesitate to reach out on my Instagram for questions or to get connected with the right folks.

If you are of the proper skillset and wondering if Triumph is worth it, it totally is. This was a stunning alpine ridge climb. I loved every second. I am stoked to try and squeeze out a few more objectives while the weather still holds. The mountains are still calling for the 2026 season!

Onward.

Follow me @journeywithjoshua_ on Instagram for all my adventures.

Mount Triumph Gear Loadout

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Carry & Move

  • Blue Ice

    DragonFly 18L

    Summit pack. Ultra-minimal for the final push — just water, layers, and snacks.

    $90
  • Mount to Coast

    H1

    The best of both worlds. It does it all, mountains to trails to cities to beaches. Top marks.

Climbing & Snow

  • Arc'teryx

    AR-395a Harness

    All-around alpine harness. Light for glacier travel, enough gear loops for a trad rack when needed.

    $200
  • Black Diamond

    RockLock Triple-Lock Carabiner

    Triple-action locker for the master point and anywhere I want zero chance of it opening.

    $22
  • Black Diamond

    RockLock Screwgate Carabiner

    My everyday screwgate locker. Big smooth gate, easy to work with gloves on.

    $15
  • Petzl

    Attache Locking Carabiner

    Pear-shaped locker — belay biner, master point, anchor. Clean nose for smooth rope handling.

    $18
  • Wild Country

    Friends

    Full trad rack. Lightweight, flexible stem, wide range. My primary cam set.

    $80–$110 ea
  • Sterling

    Alpine Accessory Cord 6mm

    The 6mm cord I bring on alpine missions for anchors and improvised systems. Lives in the pack on glaciated terrain.

    $20

Layers & Apparel

  • Arc'teryx

    Atom Hoody

    My do-everything midlayer. Synthetic insulation that breathes on the move and shrugs off a little wind. Lives on me most of the climb.

    $300
  • Arc'teryx

    Grotto Toque

    Warm toque for cold starts and summit wind. Fits under a helmet.

    $40
  • Mammut

    Selun FL Sun Hoody

    UPF sun protection that breathes on long glacier days. Hood up, sleeves down, no sunscreen needed on arms.

    $80
  • Outdoor Research

    Cirque Lite Softshell Pants

    Stretchy softshell pants for approaches and moderate alpine climbing. Move well, dry fast.

    $120

Camera

  • Canon

    EOS R7

    The hero camera for stills. Crop sensor keeps the kit light for long days; reach is great for wildlife.

    $1,499

Shelter & Sleep

  • Mountain Equipment

    Glacier 700 Sleeping Bag

    Down bag rated for alpine camps. Warm, packs small, handles cold bivy nights.

    $400
  • Exped

    FlexMat (Z-Mat)

    Closed-cell foam pad — bulletproof, no punctures, doubles as a sit pad. Pairs with the NeoAir for cold nights.

    $50
  • Therm-a-Rest

    NeoLite Air

    Ultralight air pad. Compact enough for a summit pack, warm enough for a September bivy in the North Cascades.

    $130

Food & Water

  • Fire Maple

    X1 Pro

    Ultralight integrated canister stove. Boils water fast, packs tiny, and held up on Triumph without complaint.

    $80
  • Backpacker's Pantry

    Spicy Thai Chicken

    My favorite camp dinner, full stop. After a long day on the ridge, this is exactly what the doctor ordered.

    $16
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